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Photo courtesy Dana Williams of the AMIGO club

The Mount Signal Cafe

1201 West Highway 98, Calexico, 760-357-1379. Out in Yuha desert, west of Calexico, this 40-year-old restaurant remains in the era when Mexicali and Tijuana were rivals for the best bullfighters and bulls north of Mexico City. The owner's mom, Maria de Jesus, was a banderillera, known to fans as "Manolita," a member of perhaps the only female bullfighting team ever. Surrounded by hundreds of bullfighting photos, you'll find traditional casera (homestyle) Mexican dishes. Keep an eye out for old matadors as you dig in.

Open daily. Inexpensive.

—Ed Bedford


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